Nee How Ma? 你好吗?: The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu

Back in June, I found myself in PERU! Just now, I'm finding time to post about it. Once you read this though, you'll see why it took me so long. TONS of pictures, LOTS of memories, and just not enough time to put it all down in cyberspace...but here it is!!! And not in one, but FOUR separate blog posts nonetheless :-)

I never really thought this trip to Peru (Cusco and Machu Picchu) wouldn't ever really materialize. To me, it was one of those things where you say: 'Yeah, I'd love to go to Peru and hike the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu' and then nothing really ever comes of it. Well, not this time! One day we're talking about going and the next thing I know...trek is booked, plane tickets are purchased, and I have a huge hiking/camping equipment shopping list!

So with all the logistics in place, it just left shopping and getting in shape. The shopping part was pretty easy. The getting in shape part wasn't. I'd like to think that I'm not super unfit, but most people (definitely including myself in this group) could stand to get *more* in shape. I did my thing of running now and then, hitting the stair master at the gym, and practing walking up inclines on the treadmill for extended periods of time. Looking back....yup, I definitely underdid it on the workout routines. I'd also like to say though....I live in Florida...Orlando is only about 100 feet above sea level! We don't have much to work with when it comes to training for high altitude hiking :)

We make it to Lima and taxi'd to the hostel to meet up with Natalie, Ashley, and Yvetta. After a very short stay at the hostel (for Dave, Katie and I - about 6 hours...the other 3 girls had been there for a day or two already), we all head back to the airport to catch our domestic flight to Cusco.

Cusco, what a great city! It's friendly, picturesque, and always seems to have something going on. We stayed in Cusco for a few obligatory days to get used to the altitude..and boy did I need it. Just walking up a slight hill to our hotel was enough to take my breath away. And our 3rd floor hotel room...well, that was definitely a lot harder than at sea level! All signs leading me to think that I was in for a tough 4 day hike.

Then...the morning arrives for us to take on the Inca Trail! It's a really early morning...after a long night of packing and repacking to get our bags down to the itty bitty 2.5kg weight limit allowed for the porters. Yes, we hired personal porters and they were worth every dollar...and more!

Below is from the trek company, Peru Treks, who we did our hike through. As most of the days were a blur to me since I was either a.) out of breath, b.) amazed at the sheer number of steps to be climbed/descended, c.) dehydrated from being sick, d.) running to catch up, or e.) all of the above...I thought I'd let the itinerary speak for itself and I'd add color commentary (literally...my added comments are in a different color) Enjoy! And all "how hard it was comments" aside...I really did enjoy the trip. It was an amazing experience and I think how difficult it was just made it that much more enjoyable and made it that much more of an achivement once we made it to Machu Picchu.

Day 01: Cusco to Wayllabamba (12km)

The first day of the trek is relatively easy and serves as training for the days to follow. Travelers are collected early from their hotels (5-5:30am) and travel by bus, past the picturesque villages of Chinchero, Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, for the 2½ hour scenic trip to kilometer 82 (the start of the trail). Buses normally stop at the town of Urubamba or Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley for about an hour to give people the opportunity to have breakfast.

JW: Rise and Shine! We're all packed and ready to go and head downstairs to wait to get picked up. Katie and I snag some rolls from the breakfast bar in case we need some snacks during the bus ride and then it's onto the bus we go. A few hours later, we're in town for some breakfast and some last minute supply shopping. We picked up walking sticks, some alpaca scarves, some ponchos, mini bags of cocoa leaves and charcoal (combined, they're supposed to prevent/relieve altitude sickness...not the tastiest combo, but hey...whatever works!)

Having arrived at km 82 hikers cross the Vilcanota River and follow the trail to the right as it climbs steeply up from the river. After passing through a small village, the ruins of the Inca hillfort of Huillca Raccay come into view high above the mouth of the river Cusichaca ('happy bridge'). The Incas, when they conquered the area, built a fort here since the site commanded an excellent view up and down the Urubamba valley and controlled the entrance to the Cusichaca valley. It is a simple descent down to the Cusichaca river. From parts of this trail there are great views of the Cordillera Urubamba (Urubamba mountain range) and the snow capped peak of Veronica 5860m.

JW: And we're off hiking! We started the day with a group photo and then off we went! Everyone kept telling us how the first day was the "easy" day and that this was to get us acclimated to hiking and to the long days of walking. I guess looking back, Day 1 *was* the easiest, but it was definitely a shock to the system. I still remember that first hike uphill immediately after we started on the trail. I was so happy to have that walking stick with me! Man, was the hill really steep and long! And then the rest of the hike up to our first rest break...phew...this is what they call easy?!? Well, at least we all made it up that first (of many!!!) hills to take another group photo!

Our first ruin sighting! We stopped for a quick break where Cesar talked about the ruins and then it was off again to our lunch campsite. Lunch was at a pretty little site next to a stream and then it was more hiking until we made it to camp the earliest we'd see our tents the whole trip. We had plenty of time to get settled and soak in our surroundings before dinner. We even got to walk up this path and see some ruins up close and personal. Then it was off to dinner and then bed...err sleeping bags. The tents ended up being roomy and the sleeping bags were nice although it was pretty chilly that evening! I can't remember the last time I've slept in gloves, hats, long underwear, and socks. The cold and the dark made it really hard to want to leave the tent in the middle of the night when you had to go to the bathroom...especially since the outhouse was a good ways walk away! I'm so thankful Katie and I inadvertantly timed our midnight break at the same time...since I couldn't find my flashlight which then led me to not be able to find my toilet paper!

Day 02: Wayllabamba to Pacamayo (12km)

Climbing up from Wayllabamba following the left bank of the Llulluchayoc river for about 1 hour brings you to 'Tres Piedres' (three stones) and a small bridge over the Huayruro river. There is a small campsite here toilet facilities. The stream is named after the Huayruro which is an ornamental tree. It's seeds are red and black. Many of the porters from the Ollantaytambo district are also known as Huayruros because of their traditional red and black ponchos! A little further on you'll enter a beautiful cloud forest passing a waterfall.

A further three hours trek through steepening woods and increasingly spectacular terrain brings you to the treeline and a meadow known as Llulluchapampa (3,680m). It is another 1½ hours climb to the first and highest pass of the trail (Abra de Huarmihuañusca or 'Dead Woman's Pass) at 4,200m. During this part of the trail hikers are exposed to the Andean elements: first scorching sun and then, closer to the pass, freezing winds. Once at the top hikers can celebrate having completed the most difficult section of the trail.

JW: This was said to be the toughest day. Today, we'd have to climb up, up, and then even higher up. We stopped mid-morning for brunch before having to climb up to 'Dead Woman's Pass'. The temperature dropped some more and it was gray and windy. The locals must have known this because there were at the brunch site selling hats, gloves and scarves. It turned out that it was sunny most of the way with pockets of shade/wind so lots layers really was key. For today, Katie, Dave, and I split a personal porter for our day packs so Dave "man'd up" and carried our 1 bag for the day and it was much appreciated. Even without our bags though, it was still a tough climb to 4.200m. You kept looking up and you'd see little dots of people wayyyyyyy up there and you realized you still had a long way to go. Then again though, you'd keep looking back down and you'd see how high up you were and how far you'd climbed up!

Up and up we go

...looking up and telling yourself...yes, you really do have to make it all the way to the top of that mountian...you can do this...its just one step at a time!!!

Then....after an intense set of "steps" up....We Made It!!! The highest peak of the trek! What a sight from the top!

The decent from the pass is steep although not difficult, following the trail on the left side of the valley to the valley floor and to the 2nd night's campsite at Pacamayo (3,600m). There are toilet facilities here.

JW: So what goes up, must come down. Now that we made it to the top, we had to go down...and really down. Like 3 hours of down. Before this trip, I always thought going up steps was worse than going down them. Now...I'm torn because they both hurt in very different ways. But we made the best of it...said goodbye to the Dead Woman's Pass and started down! At least we tried to make it entertaining with some jumping pics! Sorry, Katie...we were just too tired after our jumping pics to join you in yours. But you did good! Look great in yours :)

So lots of walking down a mix of gigantic and mini steps later, we made it to campsite number 2 for a late lunch. Afterwards, we had some free time before tea and then dinner. Most of us were so tired, we slept through tea and barely made it to dinner. Katie started feeling a bit under the weather and ended up skipping tea and dinner. Seemed that she wasn't alone...Katie along with about 8 others from our group ended up getting sick throughout the night and made for a long night. Personally, I barfed a few times myself and had to make a few midnight emergency runs to the 'bathrooms'. We're thinking we all must have had some bad food somewhere along the way. Luckily it wasn't anything serious...it just wasn't a good situation to be sick.

And to top it all off, it was the coldest night of the trek. Sleeping that night, I had 2 short sleeve shirts, a long sleeve shirt, a fleece, and a jacket, 2 pairs of long underwear under my long pants, 2 pair of socks, gloves, and a hat. Brrrr. BUT...that was to be the last cold night...the next night was going to be nice and toasty!

Note here that pictures from this day are scarce! It's hard to remember to document your adventures when you're feeling less than stellar!!!

Day 03: Pacamayo to Wiñay Wayna (15km)

From Pacamayo it takes about an hour to climb up to the ruins of Runkuracay. These small circular ruins occupy a commanding position overlooking the Pacamayo valley below.

JW: We all thought Day 2 was supposed to be the toughest day..but as we got to camp the night before, we all saw what was a pretty steep climb uphill and all wondered if that was what was in store for us the next morning. Well, it was! Since most of us were recovering from a night of being sick, it just made it even harder. The sun was shining though, so we just took it one step at a time and made our way up the mountain and took a break to visit the ruins.

Another 45 minute hike will bring you to the top of the second pass: Abra de Runkuracay (4,000m). At last you'll feel that you are walking along the trail of the Incas with paving, for the most part, being original. The descent down the steps from the pass is steep so take care. This section of the trail, up until the 3rd pass, is particularly beautiful as the path crosses high stone embankments and skirts deep precipices. After about 1 hour from the 2nd pass you'll arrive at Sayacmarca by way of a superbly designed stone staircase. The name Sayacmarca means 'Inaccessible Town' and describes the position of the ruins perfectly, protected on three sides by sheer cliffs. No one knows the exact purpose of these ruins.

JW: I love how now that I'm back, when I read the description provided by Peru Treks, it talks about the "steep steps" and the "deep precipices". So true!!! Well, they were definitely correct in saying that there are 3 passes. Each time we climbed to the top of one, we were greeted with more upward trails leading up to more steps! We started out with yelling ahead to the person at the front asking "What do you see?!?" when they got to the top but we soon learned that it was better not to ask! :)

Once we made it to the top of these sections of peaks though, what a place to take a break! A great view, perfect weather, and nice grassy patches to relax in. But alas the relaxing was shortlived and it was off to hit the trail again. Today was the longest day of hiking and we had a LONG way to go...

You have to backtrack a little to rejoin the trail as it passes Conchamarca, a small Inca dwelling situated in the shadows of Sayacmarca, which was probably a tambo for weary travelers on their way to Machu Picchu. From then on the path descends into magnificent cloudforest full of orchids, hanging mosses, tree ferns and flowers, passing through an impressive Inca tunnel, carved into the rock, on the way.

The trail then climbs up to the 3rd pass (3,700m). The view from the pass offers excellent views of several snow-capped peaks including Salkantay (6,180m) and Veronica (5,750m). A few minutes after the pass is Phuyupatamarca, the most impressive Inca ruin so far. The name means 'Town in the Clouds'. Access to the ruins is down a steep flight of stairs passing six 'Inca Baths' probably used for the ritual worship of water.

JW: At this point, I had already had a mini-meltdown and Katie already took some of the "Magic Potion" to feel better earlier that day, so we decided to pass on the ruins and just continue on. This is where my memory gets hazy on order of events since I was pretty much going along with the motions of walking up and down steps and inclines/declines. At some point in the morning, porters carried Natalie and Yvetta down the mountain piggy back...I wish I had pictures. It was amazing what these young men could do!

Leaving the site via an impressive Inca staircase leading from the west side of the ruins (the far end from the baths) you descend a thousand or so steps. Be careful with your knees which will feel the strain by the end of the day.

JW: The "thousand or so steps" in my mind was more like "millions or so steps". There were just soooooo many and they never seemed to stop. I thought the day before had a lot!

After about an hour of walking through cloudforest you may just be able to see the tin roof of the Trekkers Hostal at Wiñay Wayna, although it probably won't be for another 2 hours until you arrive.

JW: Hehe...I love the description above "it won't be for another 2 hours until you arrive". So there you have it...2+ more hours of walking down steps...some very huge...and some very steep! Some highlights include it getting pitch black. Luckily Dave and I brought our headlamps and our guide, Caesar, gave his cellphone to Katie to use to light the way. Casear walkie-talkied ahead to the porters who were already at the camp to run back up to meet us with more flashlights and to help us with our day packs. After some miscommunication, they additional porters showed up and escorted us back to camp. By the time we arrived, it was definitely dark and it was time for dinner.

Wiñay Wayna is the last official campsite before Machu Picchu. There is a restaurant where you can purchase drinks and even a well deserved beer, as well as hot showers ($1.5) and toilets.A short trail leaves from the southern end of the hostal to the ruins of Wiñay Wayna. The name in Quechua means 'forever young' and is named after a variety of pink orchid which grows here. The ruins comprise magnificent agricultural terraces set in an impressive location. There are also many buildings of good quality stonework and a sequence of 10 baths, suggesting that the site was probably a religious center associated with the worship of water. Ritual cleansing may have taken place here for pilgrims on the final leg of the trail to Machu Picchu.

JW: So as previously mentioned...it was pitch black when we arrived so I missed all those ruins mentioned above. We basically showed up, ate dinner, figured out the whole "tipping the guides, cooks, and porters" situation and then made our way to bed as early as possible since we had to get up the earliest of all mornings.

Day 04: Wiñay Wayna to Machu Picchu (5km), Agua Calientes, and Return to Cusco

The trail from the camp to Machu Picchu is clearly marked and takes about 1½ hours. We'll wake early at 4.30am, have breakfast and set off on the trail again by 5.30am to get to Machu Picchu before sunrise. The sky starts getting light by 5:30am and the first rays of the sun reach Machu Picchu at about 7am. The trail contours a mountainside and drops into cloudforest before coming to an almost vertical flight of 50 steps leading up to the final pass at Intipunku (Sun Gate). Suddenly the whole of Machu Picchu is spread out before you in all its glory - a fantastic sight for all.

JW: The morning of Machu Picchu has arrived! We have the earliest wake up time and this morning...no hot tea brought straight to our tent. That's ok...because we're going to Machu Picchu :) The highlight of this morning for me was packing up my bag and then realizing I forgot my toothpaste. I walk over to our pile of bags and try to find mine in the midst of 15 others. One of the porters helps me locate mine by number and points it out. It's in the back so instead of climbing over other bags, I decided to walk around to go directly to mine. It's still pitch black out and I'm wearing my headlamp which was directed down toward my bag and not where I was walking. Of course...this would only happen to me...I take a step towards my bag and then I feel nothing under my foot and then I'm falling off the ledge and down the slope. As I'm looking back up, all I hear are the porters yelling and grabbing towards me. It wasn't a steep cliff or anything and there was a lot of brush to break my fall. Even if they hadn't grabbed onto me and pulled me up, I wouldn't have made it too far down. Either way...I'm glad they caught me and I'm glad I didn't miss the chance to see Machu Picchu! :-)

Mishap aside, we headed out back on the trail. We made it to the entrance to the national park and had to wait until 5:30 when they opened up for the day. Once we were in, it was a free for all with all the other hikers. It was still dark when we started out so we had to be careful...especially with our tired feet and achey knees. Walking along, we made our way closer and closer to these 50 steep steep steps that we had heard about. And there they were! Using your hands definitely helped even if it wasn't the most graceful way to make it up! And then we made it to the sun gate and THERE IT WAS...MACHU PICCHU in the distance. What an amazing sight to first see it after 4 long days!